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Post by biggles on Jan 20, 2015 13:04:54 GMT -5
don't have any armor related pics in a folder yet, but some ship models, and wanted to see if this works!
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Post by biggles on Jan 20, 2015 13:07:08 GMT -5
Hoooray! I'm a ******* genius! That, BTW, is a 1/350 SBoat by Trumpeter.
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Post by biggles on Jan 20, 2015 13:09:59 GMT -5
This one's a 1/350 Uboat by AFV.
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Post by biggles on Jan 20, 2015 13:14:29 GMT -5
A dio I'm sometimes working on. A 1/700 port facility for part of the Peiyang Fleet, China, circa 1880's. All ships (there are more!) are by Smodels.
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Post by biggles on Jan 20, 2015 13:20:37 GMT -5
Another shot of the Uboat
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Post by biggles on Jan 20, 2015 13:25:28 GMT -5
A 1/35 Maiale midget sub by Italeri and figure by Hornet
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Post by Ralphonso on Jan 20, 2015 14:56:07 GMT -5
Holy Toledo! Those are all fantastic. You are an effing genius. Your water effects are beautiful, and the figure with the midget sub looks terrific! How about some figure painting tips? Those 1/700 turret-ships are of particular interest to me. What did you think of the kits? Thanks very much for sharing.
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Post by biggles on Jan 21, 2015 13:46:56 GMT -5
Those ship models in 1/700 are all by S-Models. I would highly recommend them. They are styrene and come with COMPLETE PE (including ratlines, railings, ladders, anchor chain, boat davits, ammo hoists [on some models], etc., etc.), as well as turned brass main gun barrels. I added wooden decks from Artwox. I have, and am, building several ships in 1/350 and 1/700, and find these to be very impressive models. I can't vouch to their dimensional accuracy, but molding quality is outstanding - parts fit is very good, and raised and engraved detail is fine. On a scale for ship models, I would place them much higher than Trumpeter, and on a par with Dragon. I bought mine from Free Time Hobbies. I haven't seen them from any other stores. Painting tips: you could go on and on and on! I prefer acrylics. In particular, Citadel paints for wargaming. These are very good quality paints, and not expensive. I'm still learning and trying to paint figures better. Tips: NEVER DRY-BRUSH!! Paint any item in it's basic color in a mid-range, and shade and highlite from that color. Shadows should stay on the underside of creases and folds, and highlighting should stay on the upper surfaces - never on the edges as you get with drybrushing. When shading and highliting, use successive layers of very thin applications of lighter or darker shades. For priming metal or resin figures, I've found that Tamiya lacquer primer thinned with their thinner, and airbrushed gives a much finer and more consistent covering than primer from a spray can. This is very brief and general. Better information can be found on Historica Forma forums on Kitmaker Network.
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Post by kyle on Jan 21, 2015 18:42:25 GMT -5
yeah what ralphonso said!! great work biggles the water is most impressive for sure that u boat surfacing is... erm... wow!
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Post by shavebeard on Jan 23, 2015 14:58:33 GMT -5
ya the u-boat is awesome! Das Boot!
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Post by spaddad on Apr 17, 2015 14:34:11 GMT -5
Tasty
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